exotics in the wilderness
A journal of Learning Community
IV's trip to Riverwoods
by Charla Bauer, Dr. Bruce Cochrane, Carin Anick, Alexandra Fitos, and Mike Owens
| 6:30 am USF, Tampa |
The campus is dark and still, but a few cars are still parked in front of the gym. I huddle against the cold wind outside the HMS building. A few ROTC recruits run up and down the steps of the building silently, their breath showing in soft white puffs. |
| 7:00 am | We travelers from Learning Community IV are on the way. Dr. Bruce drives his van with students already dreaming in the back seats. The day awakes we trek down I75, a bright sun guides us out of the Tampa rush hour as Bruce describes his Master student's research on a natural Florida flower endangered by rapid development. |
| 8:00 am | We come to a roadside stand of the endangered flower: Chrysopsis floridana, the Florida golden aster. It needs sandy, dry, disturbed conditions, but the cultivation and manicuring of nature along the roadways is not promising for its survival. |
| 9:00 am | As we get off the main highways we see less and less traffic. The land is open and flat and the road curves aimlessly into quiet country. |
| 10:00 am | We turn into the research center and nearly collide with the one other moving vehicle we've seen in an hour. Our sleeping passengers awake. We pull into the drive of a modern looking home and get out to stretch our legs. The researchers and hosts come out to greet us in sweatshirts and jeans, all smiles: Kelly, Nichola, and Loisa--Robert is on the boat. We unpack our gear and settle into the dorm rooms--formerly bedrooms in this comfortable home. Everything is white--the living room is fitted with big soft sofas and each of the bedrooms is stocked with several bunk beds. We don't have to fight over the beds; each of us claims one with our gear. Bruce discusses our plans with the researchers. |
| 10:30 am | A short presentation has been prepared to tell us the history of the project: maps, slides, video. Kelly tells us her special area of research and interest in the area. She laughs often; I don't think she's nervous, but excited about our studies. We take a pre-test, and I think the researchers figure out that we are all non-scientists, except Bruce--we don't speak the language. We pick it up as the day goes, though. The researchers teach us how to collect data from the river. We meet Marta Nelson, a work-study student from a northern college. She's getting credit for participating in scientific/environmental studies in the area for two weeks. |
| 11:00 am | We load the lunches onto the boat, a large pontoon
with seats around the outside rail. Each of us has
a clipboard with examples of fish and flora we expect to
spot along the river and data collection charts for the
research. We are to write down our observations as
we travel along the ox bow to the main channel. Observations: fences into the water, cows along the banks, heavy growth in the water, strong smell, a dead cow in the water, many bends in the waterway, abandoned fishing bait buildings, few water birds. |
| 11:30 am | We are told to report our observations. I read my
list first: "You saw a dead cow? Where? Why didn't
you tell anybody?" From now on, if we see anything unusual, we are supposed to tell everyone else to look at it. That's what this is all about, I learn. Marta identifies the plants along the banks for us--that's part of her project. Kelly clarifies some of Marta's plant identifications--some are exotics and some are native. Exotic plants are "outsiders" in this region. Strong stands of cattails are exotics which harm the river: Carin explains how this happens from the research she did for her paper last semester. LINK TO CARIN'S PAPER The water here is 30 feet deep and dark with tannic acid; the flow is strong. Cattle graze along the banks. There is no plant obstruction in the water, but along the banks the plant growth in wild, irregular, with few trees. A huge mound, like a hill, borders the water on one side. On the mound there is grass, but little else. The mound is the bottom of the river, dredged years ago, now part of the landscape. |
| 12 noon | We approach a huge structure blocking passage up the river--a dam! Robert steers the boat into a small waterway on one side of the dam and toward an ominous gate--like a drawbridge, almost. Nichola moves us all to the center of the boat and uses a long pole to reach a weathered rope hanging from an ancient-looking piling. As she pulls, she sounds an alarm. We watch as a car approaches over the dam from a small house high above us--the keeper of the lock. The lock keeper operates the heavy machinery which opens the huge gates before us; water flows gently out and Robert maneuvers the boat in. The gate closes behind us, Nichola and Kelly both hold ropes, now, keeping us stable and close to one tall concrete wall: Positively No Fishing is posted there. The Lock Keeper comes out of his little control room and walks along the top of the wall making friendly conversation with the crew: Where you going? When are you coming back? It's hard to hear him because the water is rushing like a waterfall through the second gate which now obstructs our passage; our boat rises with the flow of water into the chamber--we go up ten feet according to the measure on the wall. Then the gates before us open and we pass through on our way upriver. We are nearing the reclamation site. We break into the lunches; I forgot to bring napkins. |
| 1:00 pm | Even with the sun, the air is chilly. Marta is
the only person wearing shorts; the rest of us hug
ourselves against the wind, hats pulled down on our
heads. Alex's
Grinch shirt is not enough to keep her warm and Carin
left her sweater back at the lodge/lab. We
position ourselves in the front of the boat, but try
to block the wind. Along the way, we test water samples for oxygen and acid--a complicated process--and compare our results. We discuss our findings with the crew, who are very familiar with the research and data. |
| 2:00 pm | Another obstruction blocks our forward progress less
obtrusively than the dam. Orange tape and large signs
mark the reclamation area. The boat meanders
out of the main channel into one of the swampy areas
created by the return of the river's bottom. No high
ridge borders the river here, but plants seem to grow
from its middle. Apparently, the plants which
started to grow on the dirt continued to grow when the
fill was returned to the river. On either side of
the river here the government owns the land--no cattle.
One side is a preserve and the other a military training
site. Kelly is excited as she describes the heroic
efforts of the native plants to establish themselves
anew. Far upriver, now, we pass through another lock. The keeper was watching for us because he got a call from his friend down river. He promises to show us his dogs on our return. |
| 3:00 pm | On the other side of the dam we once again see ranch
land, horses
grazing along the edge of the deep channel.
Robert beaches us at a preserve: a managed land
site. We disembark to compare the ranch land to the
preserve. The crew makes an announcement: Girls on the left, boys on the right; this is your chance to take care of the necessaries. None of us dared. Along the path we see evidence of wild hogs. We also see wild hog traps on the ranch land. Robert, Alex, and Carin have gotten way ahead of us on the walk inland. Suddenly, Robert yells and the girls scream--a wild cat has jumped in front of them. By the time we arrive running the creature is gone--no trace. Bruce and I suspect it was really a Cane Toad that crossed their path. We come to the site of a recent burn to compare the
managed land and the ranch land. Nichola is doing
special studies and directing incentives toward
eco-agriculture, merging the interests of ecology and
business. She describes how these efforts are
manifesting in the state and introduces us to the
concepts which guide the eco-agricutlure ranch we will
visit tomorrow. Bruce and I both wished for Kevin,
Kofi, and Susan at this point, because so many of the
discussions we had in class seemed relevant to the issues
Nichola was investigating. I must admit, the LC IV
students put forth some challenging questions informed by
those class discussions: We march back to the boat and the burdens begin to show in our demeanor. Along the way back we stop to gather samples of life from the river bottom and pick up some camper's debris. We catalogue our findings. We see an old fisherman working the river in solitude. |
| 4:00 pm | We pass through the first lock and the keeper warns
us that the lock close at 5; he took his dogs back
home. We barely have enough time to make it to the
next lock. As we reach the reclamation area, the water trail for clear passage is not clearly marked. Robert heads down a few dead ends and has to run us around and take us back to the channel. We are fascinated by the flora and fauna, unmindful of the impending deadline with the Lock Keepers. We see a family of alligators. As we finally wind our way through the swampy ox bows, we come into the channel again down river from the reclamation site. Once in the channel, the boat opens up and races toward the dam--about an hour away from here. The motors scream as the boat races on; we brace ourselves against the biting wind. Shadows are growing along the river's edge. |
| 4:45 pm | With the dam in sight, the engines still don't rest. There is visible relief from the crew as we pull the rope to signal the Lock Keeper and he responds. We sit quietly as the lock reverses its processes. We enter on the higher level and are slowly lowered with the water until the gates open in front of us. |
| 5:15 pm | Out of the lock, a quiet calm envelops us as we enter
the deep steady flow of the channel. The sun is setting; we quietly watch. |
| 5:30 pm | Dusk. The boat is navigated into the ox bow
where the research site is located. I am
tired. There has been no flow through the ox bow in
more than 15 years: it is a dead end. "Hey! Look everybody! A dead cow in the water!" EEEEWWWWW! We end our voyage back again at the dock. We meander towards the lodge/lab and fall onto the couches in the white room. We are collecting our thoughts, reclaiming our energies. The front door flies open and a familiar voice shouts, "There you are!" Mike found us--in the middle of nowhere. He unloads his stuff, burritos and all, and joins us with an enthusiasm and energy we could only remember. |
| 6:00 pm | There's plenty of food, so we invite the crew and Marta to join us. We feast on lasagna, salad, homemade bread, and cookies sent by our first grade keypals. Very satisfying--a good time was had by all. |
| 7 pm. | The crew planned more activities for us before bed.
First, we watched some videos that they have produced on
the area--featuring the crew members! I have to
admit that low lights were not good for this tired
viewer. Alex told me the next day what the videos
were about. After the videos and short discussions, everyone else went outside for a bonfire. They can fill in those details. I crashed into my pillow. |
| 7 am | No mercy. We are up and dressed and cleaning up the
lodge before we head out for the eco-ranch. I didn't bring enough coffee. |
| 8 am | In a caravan of four cars we make our pilgrimage into the heart of agricultural Florida: orange groves, cattle ranches, sugar cane. |
| 9 am | Off a two lane road we
turn on a dirt path, through two gates into the Macarthur
Agro-Ecology Research Center. We haven't seen a grocery store or gas station for half and hour. The ranch hands meet us with their families: Eugene Lawless, the ranch manager; an environmental biologist; and a water quality biologist. Other researchers came and went--some of them were in those videos last night. The ranch fellows take us into an office/conference room where they explain their project and invite us to ask questions. A map of the ranch demonstrates its vastness. The goal is to manage the land and make a profit while ranching ecologically--a sort of low impact ranching practice. The scientists monitor some of the "peripheral" effects of their ranching practices, such as the return of certain wild life to the area and water run-off statistics. |
| 10:00 am | On benches in the back of a pick-up truck, we head
out for a tour of the ranch and a view of some of the
studies being conducted here and measured for dual impact
on the environment and profit capabilities:
Of key interest to LC IV students and faculty (Carin says, "That is so big!!") was Eugene's comment that ecologically managed cattle ranches could replace the spontaneous burn in the balance of Florida eco-culture. Bruce really responded to the concept. We want to hear more about this. |
| 10-11:30 am | We observe the cattle in the field and discuss their
genetic manipulation in order to produce both durable
livestock and delicious beef. Brahma are the best
cattle for Florida. We stop at a water measurement site to check the equipment and discuss the statistics from the ranch. In the conversation, we begin to understand the community's reactions to the ranch's activities: mixed. Ranchers have not yet endorsed the practices on the ranch, but seem to appreciate the positive effects on the environment, particularly the water quality. We observe a small orange grove on the property; the sheep are currently grazing that area. Orange groves are not the ranchers' particular interest, but they began to discuss eco-tourism as one use to which they could put the grove. Canals are allowed to become overgrown until the water cannot pass through because the plants help clean the water of cattle waste. Herbicides are not used on the water plants, but they are "harvested" every 5-10 years. In a secluded hammock, we meet the Barred Owls: a pair which responds to a simulated bird call from the researcher. He is hoping that they have developed a nest in the area. The owls seem disappointed that he didn't bring them a mouse, but pose for our cameras, anyway. |
| 12 noon | We have become fast friends. We say our good-byes and begin the drive back to USF. All they way back, we compare our observations, reinforce our shared memories, make our plans, and laugh and laugh. |
| Monday morning | The LC IV Riverwoods group is quiet. |